Objavljeno od strane: zoranzivlak | 26. septembra 2011.

NEGDE IZMEDJU, ILI TI TRI PROVINCIJE U TRI DANA

Nekako odmah po izlasku iz turisticke Meke zvane Qufu, krece nesto drugacija Kina. Put se naprasno i naprosto promenio- uzan, pa pomisljam k`o u onom vicu da svi voze pogresnom stranom, meni u susret. I kvalitet druma je drugaciji- pojavljuju se ploce, u nekim mestima (Tanzhou) u tako ocajnom stanju, da pomisljam da sam se stvorio na banstolu. Zavrsi li se ona rekonstrukcija do Indjije, ili da dodje omanja grupa Kineza da to zavrsi preko noci?!? Sliku nije uspela da promeni ni napadna turisticka reklama (ukljucujuci siroki put u ulasku u najvece mesto, sav ispunjen bilborderskim pozivima na uzivanje) u delu koji me je doveo do jezera Wei shan. Od te atrakcije, bas i nisam video puno; da li zato sto je put los ili sto sam morao naci smestaj u nekom od prolaznih pansiona. Kao u filmu. Omanja zgrada, tj. prostor sirine jednih vecih vrata u nizu lokala, sa sobama na spratu, dok gazde, familija zivi u prizemlju. Cistoca i prateca ponuda samo za zamisliti, a sve to za 20 juancuca (onih, k`o zemlja trenutno jakih)= 2,5 jevra.
Samo uvod u naredno jutro. as sam poranio, nekako odmah sa svitanjem. Oko pola sedam vec sam na drumu i imam sta videti!?! Jezero je tu odmah iza coska, ni brana ga nije uspela sakriti. Pre reka ljudi, koja sve sa slemovima juri u svetlu buducnost. Krajolik mi izmamio iz fonoteke Neletovu pesmu o Zen(i)ci; a i onih strofa „radim u rudniku…“ sam se opsetio. Priblizio sam se Huzhou. Pojam ekoloske apokalipse uzivo. Ni one njihove maske ne pomazu. A u centru tog velikog grada aerodrom. I to vojni. Od ranog jutra su vezbali- a kad sam ja naisao obilaznicom, priredili su mi svu akrobatiku sletanja. Tu negde sam se „zakacio“ i vozio za jednim momkom na elektro skutercicu, a on sve glavom nagore, pa u toj nasoj konverzaciji, kao da hoce da kaze „vidi kako imamo jaku armiju, avijaciju, ili ne znam ti ja sta vec“. Eh, mislim se ja i mi smo imali ruske avione kao sto su ovi vasi.
Tako sam iz Shandong provincije „doleteo u Jungsi. I oet dobar sirok, lep, prav i brz put. Hocu reci vetar mi duva u ledja. Ovih par dana vreme se stabilizovla na, tu svoju septembarsku konstantu. Sveza jutra, a u toku dana ugreje do30-tak, al` podnosljivih stepeni. I tako 2-3 sata, sve u svemu podnosljivo za voznju.
Suining, grad opkoljen novom ekonomskom zonom, a sledece jutro Anhui. Blagorodni Anhui, rekao bih; jer od kukuruza, preko kikirikija, prosa, rotkvica (za koje sam mislio da su krompir), sve je rodilo i sve je uzbrato i prebira se u rujnu. Puna su uzana dvorista, stisnjena uz mnogobrojne kanale, jos jednu odliku Anui-a. Pa kad su jos oiviceni topolama, sve me smestaju u Bac. Petrovac. Ali tu je jos jedna odlika ove provincije. Gomila otpada- bilo ga je i ranije, ali mozda zato sto je prostor najednom suzen, pa zatalasan, stisnjen i gustin drvoredima- na sve strane gomila smeca. Jos jedna potvrda o kraju ljudske civilaizacije u sopstvenom proizvodu. Grad Wuxe, grad gradiliste, toliko prasine zemlje i ostalog da i m ni one maske ne pomazu. Grad Mingguang (koji cu pamtiti po ecem trecem) je varos u kojem pogled zastiru kranovi, u sirinu i daljinu, pa po jedno dvadesetak komada. Chuzhou, poslednji veliki pred prestonicom(nekad cele Kine, sad provincije) ima bezbrojne panoe koji predstavljaju grad u onoj svetloj buducnosti. Ona za neke pocinje od ovog vikenda. Naime, brojni svatovi i ovde pucnjavom obelezavaju taj svecani cin. A Kinezi su majstori vatrometa.
Prasti na sve strane, evo i ovde u predgradju Naning-a.
SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN, A.K.A. THREE PROVINCES IN THREE DAYS
Almost the minute you leave Qufu, which is considered a touristic Mecca, you enter a somewhat
different China. The road has suddenly and completely changed – it narrowed down, so I had the
impression everyone is driving in the wrong direction, except me, just like in that joke. Even the
quality of the road was different – some plates showed up, in some places (like Tan Zhou) were in
such a bad shape that I felt I came to a location under construction. The bad image wasn’t improved
even by the intrusive touristic commercialization (including a wide road leading to the biggest place,
filled with billboards inviting the visitors to come and enjoy themselves) in the part which brought
me to the Wei Shan Lake. Due to the bad road, or the fact that I couldn’t find accommodation
anywhere except the local boarding houses, I haven’t seen much of this attraction. It was like in a
movie – a small building, that is, a space with the width of a bigger door, in a series of extensions,
with rooms on the upper floor, while the owner and his family live in the ground floor. Impeccable
cleanliness and service, and all of this for only 2.5 euros.
I’ll give you a small introduction into the next day. I got up with the sun, and at half past six I was
already on the road. And how was I surprised! The lake was just around the corner, not even the
dam could hide it – it was probably the river of people wearing tin hats and racing each straight to
the bright future. I got near Juzo – a true example of ecological apocalypse. Not even those masks
of theirs are from big assistance. And in the very center of the city there is a military airport. The
militaries were practicing from the early morning, and when I came along they made me a true
welcome show of the landing acrobatics. After that I drove with one of them on an electric scooter,
and from his body language I could see that he was proud of their army and aviation. And I thought
to myself, we had Russian airplanes just like yours.
So, I flew from Shandong province to Jungsi. A wide, nice, straight and fast road, with the wind
blowing in my back. The weather had stabilized to its usual September climate. With fresh mornings,
about 30 degrees during the day, though quite bearable and it goes on for 2 or 3 days, it was actually
pretty good for riding.
First I passed Suining, a town surrounded by a new economic zone, and then the precious Anhui the
next morning. I say precious because from corn to peanuts, millet, radishes (which I had mistaken for
potatoes) everything is already harvested and is being plucked in September. The narrow backyards
are full, and pressed along many canals, which are yet another characteristic of Anhui. On the other
hand, a bad side is that there is a lot of waste. There has been a lot before, perhaps because the
whole space was suddenly narrowed down and rolled over and pressed with numerous alleys –
which mean trash all around. Yet another example of the human civilization suffocating in its own
product. There is also the town of Wuxe, or should I say a construction site town. Mingguang (which
I will remember for something else) is a town filled with large and wide cranes which block the
view – and we’re talking about approximately twenty of these machines. Chuzhou, last of the big
ones before the capital (once of whole China, now just a province) has numerous billboards which
represent it in that bright future. That kind of future begins this very weekend, for some people
– especially the ones getting married. It isn’t unusual to celebrate the act of holy matrimony with
fireworks and crackers here, and this is something the Chinese are brilliant at making.
Bursting from all directions, even here in the suburbs of Nanning.

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